Many art-tile manufacturers will custom-make their tile to match your surround. But regardless of which tile you use, you’ll save a lot of time by making a cardboard template of your surround so that you can lay out a pattern on the floor, space the tiles appropriately, and choose a starting position before committing everything to the fireplace itself.
Start by placing the tile on the cardboard per your design, beginning with the center tile and working outward from there. Then you can see if you need to adjust the tiles to avoid cutting any slivers at the ends. On the legs of your surround, plan to use full tiles in the field and leave any cuts at the bottom.
Whenever you tile a vertical surface, you have to start from the bottom row and work your way up. For the field above the firebox opening, you’ll need to screw a piece of wood to the bricks to provide support for the heavy tiles while they set. At the bottom of the legs, you’ll have to estimate the size of the last cut tile and rip a piece of wood for a level starting point that keeps the joints lined up from leg to leg.
Install a temporary support ledge

Mark the center of the top of the firebox opening. Using a level, draw a plumb line at the mark that extends from the firebox to the top of the surround. Use this centerline as a starting point to ensure a balanced design.
Cut a 1x3 to fit the width of the surround. Position the 1x3 just below the top edge of the firebox opening and check it for level. If the ledge and the top of the firebox are not even when the ledge is level, position the wood slightly below the opening on one side, rather than let it ride up on the other side. This will ensure that all of the surround will be covered when you install the tiles.
Using a drill/driver and 2-inch masonry screws, secure the wood at each end to the surround.
Mix up a new batch of thinset and additive. Using the flat edge of the trowel, apply a horizontal band of thinset across the center-line above the support ledge. Score the thinset by combing the notched edge of the trowel through it at an angle.
Position the first tile at the centerline, with its bottom edge resting on the support ledge. Tip it into place and wiggle it to set it fully.
Continue placing tiles on either side of the center, alternating left and right. Periodically check the tiles for level and plumb and to be sure all their faces are flush with one another; to keep them even, adjust the spacing between them when necessary.
Grout the tile
Using a putty knife, clear away any pieces of thinset stuck between the tiles. Place painter’s tape over art tiles that have irregularly shaped surfaces, in preparation for grouting.
Using the drill/driver fitted with a mixing paddle, mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a grout float held at an angle, pull the grout across the face of the tiles to pack it into the joints. Then turn the float on its edge and pull it diagonally across the grout lines to remove the excess from the face of the tiles.
Be sure to use a non-sanded grout to avoid scratching certain tile.
Below is a slide show of a fireplace using Noche Travertine tile.
This project can cost from $250 to $1500 and take up to 3 days.















